Research

Shaw Theatre Sculpture

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(not own image St Joan Wikipedia)

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I was initially captivated by the interesting silhouette of the sculpture as it is top heavy with a metal box and cage surrounding its upper half. Within the metal box there is range of shapes that would be interesting to draw from, as they are unusual and would also work well together in a layering effect. The use of curved metal strips links visually to the metal cage sculpture found at the British library and the crinoline function garment.

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Tuesday 11th September

Colours in Hinduism

Red – Symbolises sensuality and purity, the contrasting connotations of the colour also relates to the contrasting views people feel when looking at a female shorn head. It is a great colour of importance in the Hindu community and is consequently used for many personal and auspicious events such as marriage ceremonies.

Saffron- is associated with scared fire rituals and in turn is a symbol of intelligence. For Hindu’s believe that knowledge burns away any traces of ignorance and brings light. This relates to the term Futurism and how society often envisions a brighter future one where corrections have been made.

Orange- Is the colour that closely relates to your identity in society, as it symbolises connection, community and belonging. People often make drastic or bold visual changes such as hairstyle sor clothes in order to outwardly show who they are on the inside, personally I view shaved heads as an outward show of strength and defiance.

Pink- Is a colour associated with the lotus flower and its connotations.

Symbols in Hinduism

The Bindi Dot – known in Sanskrit as Bindu means creation linking to my reoccurring theme of creating a new female empowered future. The bindi is also a sign of purity and if its red in colour it is seen as a sign of true and prosperity. It also has spiritual relevance as it is a reminder of their devotion and dedication. However, the bindi itself has now become a well-loved accessory with its significance and meaning becoming more diluted as it is now worn commonly seen as simply fashionable.

Sri Yantra- Is a geometrical Hindu symbol used for worship and meditation that is empowered by their Deity’s. The Yantra represents cosmo-genic development, essentially the creation of the universe and in my work the geometric design is used to represent the recreation of femininity. The Yantra can also represent the balance or coming together of femininity and masculinity through the interconnecting nine triangles, as five triangle pointing down represent Shakti (females), whilst the four male triangles pointing upwards represent Shiva.

Lotus Flower- The Hindu gods favourite flower. Has a place in many Hindu rituals as well being connected to depictions of deities and leaders, such as the Goddess of Education Saraswati is shown sitting on a lotus flower. The lotus flower symbolises: beauty, femininity, fertility and prosperity.

These symbols will be used throughout my patterns, but a simplified version with the bindi shown through red dots and the Yantras shown in a simplified linear manner. The lotus flowers adds a visual touch of softness in order to enhance the contrast. The pattern created will be cover the shorn area of the head, to convey visual some of the meaning that I attach to the look.

Mametz wood, Owen Sheers (2005)

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Brief Context: 

Welsh battle in world war 1, 4,000 injured, 600 dead. 5 day gruelling battle of face to face combat. The welsh division eventually succeeded but their work was never truly acknowledged. 

Significance:

Although the battle the poem speaks of happened in the war before, World War Two and the rebuilding of the Barbican. It still tells the story of the significance and weight of emotion that can be felt when unearthing remnants of history. There is an importance placed on archaeological finds as they reveal to us the past, what it was like and what is left behind. 

 

Laura Slater - Textiles Printer

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  • Laura Slater Feb 2011 blogspot

The prints are very graphic featuring linear geometric shapes and lines. This makes the print bold and very eye catching. I feel the limited use of colour really helps to highlight the beauty of her line work. In my own print work I feel I am using too much of my 3 chosen colours and should either minimise the amount of colours in my print or similar to Slaters work use a paler/ pastel version of my colours so that the overall look does not become too overpowering. 

I also like the composition of Slater's piece how the lines make the print seem longer in sense, so looking at how my mark makings can change the dimensions of my print may be something to investigate further. Also each shape is of a different size or thickness whilst all my prints seem to be too similar, so I should look at changing the amount of paint I put on my block stamp if I want really thick, heavy, bold lines or rather thinner lighter ones. 

Furthermore, their is a real hand/ homemade element to her work, as each smudge and transfer mark shows the unique nature of her work. I think this is an important aspect as block printing is a very personal print so to show your own personality and human nature through it rather than it being done on a computer is nice to see because you feel closer to the artist. 

Ben Young - Sculptures

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Ben Young is a glass and concrete artist from New Zealand. Inspired by the oceans and water around him, Young tries to capture the texture of the waves through roughly shaping the glass or reflecting light. The combination of the materials creates a contrast between a translucent material that appears visually light and then the heavy opaque material of the concrete. This contrast provides for a more interesting appearance as the viewer tries to understand and work out the process of creation. Taking inspiration from Young's sculptures I want to start combining together different materials in my work, such as clay (solid, thick) and organza ( light, sheer)/ concrete, plaster (opaque) and resin, plastic (clear)

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Ermenegildo Zegna

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Zegna takes inspiration from architecture particularly Italian historical buildings. This is what informs the designer on structure and tailoring of the suit. Beauty, quality and clean lines are the main focus even referenced in the store buildings. 

- Ermenegildo Zegna by Anna Zegna, Skira edihare SPA 2010.

The Formal Suit Comeback

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The Rap Pack (lil Wayne, Jay-Z,T.I and Kanye West) performance of "swagga like us" in 2009 at the Grammy Awards. Highlighted the change in fashion, how urban streetwear started to shift to formal or more sophisticated tailored looks. With some of the biggest names in the industry wearing a classic tuxedo this inspired others (the public) to start dressing formally. 

This research consolidates my idea f combining traditional pinstripe patterns and suit material with a modern sport tracksuit, to showcase the changing developments of menswear.

 

 

Yukinori

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- modern menswear by Hywel Davies, Laurence King publishing 2008

Yukinori's design is interesting in that he creates volume and structure in a flat lightweight fabric through the technique of scrunching and using weights. In this case the driftwood from cosmic wunders performance. This design inspires me to find different ways of creating volume in my deconstructed garment i.e newspaper for volume and elastic bands to create defined shape .

"It begins with a concept: create a space and bring the space with you everyday" - Yukinori on menswear design philosophy.  

Jiri Kolar ( Poem and Collage)

Details

Mirinalini Mukherjee (hemp and mild steel)

Details

Underground Movements

There have been many underground subcultures like graffiti that influenced change and rebellion against the government out of anguish for their social situations. For me some of the greatest scenes that created change or made pivotal landmarks are in the music, beat and lyrics of rappers who portray how the world is them and therre people.

Hip-hop Culture

On his record Pac’s theme interlude, he has sampled the line “withdraw this record, it has no place in our [American] society”. Tupac in turn responds saying as he was born in this unjust society, there was no way he could ever be a “perfect” person, nor does he want to be a “robot”. Tupac highlights the issue that not effects America but England also, wherever there are minorities and unfair treatment, as if the government doesn’t care for you nor create laws for your benefit then you are stuck continuously suffering, as the biblical verse in Nahum said “ a victim, that never departs”.  

Tupac is regarded as a legend in the hip hop community for his truthful lyrics on what it takes to survive when the government who is in control does not care for you, this can be seen in his song ‘Soulja Story’ which is a metaphor for the life of those who live in “ghetto” or poorer areas are constantly fighting against the system. Tupac recognises his power and tries to give insight so that others may follow and cause a revolution turning from the suppressive control of the government to the chaos that is choosing how to live for yourself.  

All you wanted to be, a soulja, like me

They cuttin' off welfare...

They think crime is rising now

You got whites killing blacks

Cops killing blacks, and blacks killing blacks

Shit just gon' get worse

They just gon' become souljas

Straight souljas

- Tupac, Soulja Story

 

Similar to the spitting in the Punk movement, Tupac also reclaimed the word ‘N*gga’ for the black community, turning it into an acronym for N – never, I- Ignorant, G- getting, G- goals, A- Accomplished. He also created his own phrase ‘Thug Life’ which stands as a warning to society/ government of the dangers of there actions. The Hate U Give Little Infants Fucks Everybody, is the meaning of Tupac’s thug life, stating that it is the children and future generations that are hurting the most and who the change needs to occur for. The thug life acronym has been lent to a best-selling book now turned major motion picture set to be released later this year. This only serves to show the wide reach that Tupac and the hip-hop movement had as new work and social concepts are being based upon his original ideas.

 

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British Subcultures: Grime/ Drill

The Uk alternate to Hip-Hop is grime, I wanted to include British artists as well to create cohesion between Phoebe English, Punks and anarchy. 

Currently, the most well known, grime artists is Stormzy who is changing the way grime is seen through his appearances on shows like Good Morning Britain, that create a universal appeal that goes past small communities. This universal approach and appreciation of underground music is reflected in the charts with many grime, drill or afro-beats artists being represented thus meaning their social message is spreading further and finding footing. Stormzy in his Brit Awards live performance called out Theresa May for her lack of help during the Grenfell Tower tragedy. 

“Theresa May where’s the money for Grenfell?
What you thought we just forgot about Grenfell?”

 - Stormzy, Freestyle

Style

The style for both these movements have some similarities such as, bandannas that Tupac can often be seen wearing. the pattern of the bandanna with its linear shapes and geometric style would be interesting to integrate into my textile samples.

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-Tupac Shakur, by the editors of Vibe, plexus publishing

Punk Movement

The punk movement began in England's underground scenes as a satirical rebellion for freedom. Due to the high levels of unemployment, racial tensions and youthful energy. The Punks delighted in the juxtaposition of acts; doing the opposite of what was accepted, for example  at the end of concerts the crowd would spit at the band in appreciation, a parody on how the act of spitting is usually seen as an act of violence or hatred. These seemingly acts of hate did not stop there with some punk rockers choosing to wear swastikas in honour of defacing school property a side effect of people breaking away from not only the government but also morals. In my work I want to show how chaos can be a good thing if it means finding who you are away from what the world is telling you to be although, that does mean those with less appealing identities may start to come forward and show the darker side of chaos. Seen in the punk movement which was concerned for freedom then tainted with Nazi symbols. 

Punk Moodboard

Examples of Governmnet Control

Surveillance: 

- London is the 2nd most surveillanced city in the world after Bejing, with 1.85 million cameras in operation, that's one camera for every 14 people. 

- A worrying law that Britain uses us that surveillance cameras do not need to be registered in London so the actual amount is unclear or even where the cameras are located. Meaning the government has free unlimited access to our lives and do not need to inform the public of this.

Force:

- Homeless people receive ASBO's and physical removal when sleeping rough, despite them lacking any other option due to the governments limited funding for them. The weight of an ASBO if sentenced is 5 years. 

- Minorities are threatened with deportation, the latest example of this is the Windrush scandal, when the government after calling for help and aid to rebuild the country after the war decided they no longer needed this generation of people. Likewise in 2014 Cashtastic an up and coming UK rapper who sang about positivity and turning away from gang culture was deported despite having his primary and secondary school education in England and signing a record deal with the Universal label.

- Incarceration and arrests rates are higher for minorities, insuring that those who are most vulnerable and most effected by the poor social constraints imposed by the government are unable to speak out.

Media:

- Media is the newest way of control from propaganda to newspapers and adverts. The government try to control the information we take in and see.

- Many people have a preference of newspaper thinking that their choice is individual and that the paper they support will be honest. However, many of the newspapers are owned by one person or share the same side; for example Rupert Murdoch a conservative, owns both the Times and The Sun effectively encompassing 2 very different strands of society under their one umbrella of control. Whilst Evgeny Levedev owns The Independent and The Evening Standard. 

 

 

-Johnsen, S., Fitzpatrick, S., & Watts, B. (2018). Homelessness and social control: a typology. DOI: 10.1080/02673037.2017.1421912

http://www.albionmill.org.uk/?p=1476, Albion Mill, published 06/05/2018

Computer Control

Computer Quotes:

- William Gibson describes cyberspace as a "Consensual Hallucination" , as a hallucination is the belief in something not present and in  the physical world computers and networks are not truly present, we the humans are, yet we are being controlled by the systems. 

- Nicole Stenger  has argues that "Cyberspace is like OZ- it has no location" meaning their is nothing physical or solid to hold onto rather we are chasing after dreams the government/ world has told us are the norm or should be wanted.

- The draw and "lure" of lust that society has formed surrounding technology is so strong, that it "blinds us" to the current "danger[s]" of erasing our culture, history and independent personalities. we all become so blinded by what the latest celebrity is doing that we forget to focus on what we are doing in our own real 'physical lives', likewise in fashion we all become obsessed with the latest trainers or the best high end  looks, that we forget to find our own style separate to what the world is telling us to wear.

- Jon Dovey asks the important question of "what kind of value systems will they [computers/software] replicate [or replace]?" Will software's and online organisations have the same little morals of the government? Will we begin to loose our humanity/ which can already be seen in the examples of cyberbullying and trolling. so already in the areas where control is meant to be expressed and utilised with have faults. Istvan Cscicsery-rory coins it as "the capitalistic, mechanical problem of expansion."

- Technology like the government is controlled and operated by the most powerful using their tools for their own selfish gains at the cost of the greater public. The government likes to restrain and contain the access of knowledge that we have and the lifestyles we lead, this can be seen in its most extreme form in North Korea under Kim Jon Young. However, Dovey tells us that "what is repressed cannot be kept out of dreams", meaning all the ideas, cultural influences and historical actions often made irrelevant or nonviable by the government then become the source of peoples dreams, revolutions and causes for change. Examples of this can be seen in graffiti, Hip-hop music with Tupac Shakur's song changes and in Stormzy's performance at the BRIT awards where he called out Theresa May for not helping Grenfell efficiently enough.

- Dovey warns us that "we cannot afford to underestimate the tactical manoeuvers of the relatively powerless when... resist[ing]... the systems and products of the relatively powerful." 

- Factual Dreams New Media in Social context, Jon dovey, Larence and Wishert, 1996. pg XIV-210

Negative Space Drawing Reference Reserach

The History of the Suit

General Overview:

The suit is hailed as the pinnacle of human evolution , the distinct factor, that lets humanity know that we have made it become evolved and civilized. "For almost four hundred years it has been [regarded] by artists, philosophers and critics as evidence of humanity's unceasing and transformative search for perfection". The gentleman's suit has become a symbol of civil "perfection" through its high prestige and respect in society to its well proportioned and functional fit. The suit brings together class with ease and in my own work I can begin to look at the functionality or whether there will be any functionality to my garment as the suit is the dress of everyday, once a uniform and practical but now stylish and formal.  Adolf Loos, fashion journalist, credited as the father of modernism describe his love for suits as "The dress of those rich in spirit... the self-reliant...The attire of people whose individuality is so strong {they do not need] garish plumes...woe to the painter expressing his individuality with a stain frock, for the artist in him has resigned in despair". The word "self-reliant" is an apt description or stereotypical characteristic of a man in a suit as it is seen to be the dress of the authoritative, the ones who do not seek help but are self-efficient. 

Material:

Rich materials with longevity such as woven wool, Saxonies, Cheviots are the main fabrics of suits and the first consideration in design. Many of the fabrics like the tweed, Russian twills or herringbone used to create suits are weave based materials, so using weave manipulation to create fabric samples might befitting to reference the rich history of the garment. 

 - Title: The Suit form function and style, Publisher: Reaktion Books LTD Published; 2016, Author: Christopher Breward

Deconstruction Project Moodboard

Song Seoyoon Moodboard

Song Seoyoon

I like the overlapping of pvc and the hand paint technique. Seoyoon's reimaging of a classic structured suit into a chaotic personal outcome, that has the designers stamp all over it.

Simone Rocha SSS 17

Balance in the silhouette, the sleeves mirror each other, although being different fabrics and items joined together. Like the contrast of material from the solid, sturdy trench coat material to the fragile thin chiffon material. This is interesting as the materials have polar opposite properties and functions; for example you wear a trench coat when the weather is poor i.e windy or wet yet you wear a lightweight sheer dress in the summer, when the British weather is hopefully at its best. So putting these materials together in the way Rocha has done, She has created an entirely new function for the garment one that differs from their previous use, which makes the concept around this design even stronger. Visually looking at it, it looks rather plain and simple however, when you realise Rocha has created a function for this dress that wasn't previously there you add more respect and integrity to the work. This can influence my own work by making me think not only about the silhouette and shape but also about the material and how it can be used. 

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The Philosophy of Deconstruction

"The very meaning and mission of deconstruction is to show that things- text, institutions, traditions, societies, beliefs and practices{1} " can not be defined nor their route/ process determined as they "exceed the boundaries they currently occupy{1}". To relate this research back to my  project, I can experiment with shape, line and tailoring to create a garment that no longer solely inhabits menswear or formal wear but goes beyond that into uni-sex, multi-functional or casual wear - basically turning the key words connoted upside down in order to create a reconstructed garment that is completely different to the original. Derrida defines it as a "systematic subversion {2}" with the Latin root meaning to 'turn from below'. In my work I want to  subvert the concepts surrounding men's suits such as power, authority business and to undermine it or contrast it in sense by using the original classic suit material to create a silhouette that is not categorically manly but rather feminine in contour and shape (less harsh in structure).

The ideology around Destruction is limitless as it focuses on the aspect of whats next and "what is really going on" and what is yet to "come". For once you truly destruct and breakdown and object or idea you can no longer reform it, you have to create something new, better an improvement on the old. "Everything in deconstruction is turned toward opening, exposure, expansion... releasing unheard-of, undreamt-of possibilities". in terms of fashion when you deconstruct a garment, such as a suit, you physically open up the garment  to reveal the inside construction and details that help your understanding of the object but you also open up the deconstructed garment to new possibilities of silhouettes and functions. Caputo's passionate description of destruction as a "relentless pursuit of the impossible{1}" serves as inspiration and a reminder that whilst working on the suit, I should remain open to how the fabric itself wants to form once destructed, rather than focusing on how I know the silhouette to be or the initial idea I had, as destruction as Caputo puts changes the garment or idea in its entirety to create something new. Also to not think about clothes in a linear obligatory manner such as sleeves, shirts, trousers but instead aim to create shapes that are new or innovative that are not necessarily apart of the current fashion world. 

-{1] Title: Deconstruction in a nutshell, Page:31, Publisher: Fordham University Press New York, Published 1997, Author: John D. Caputo

- {2}Title: Deconstruction and critical theory, page; 1, Publisher: Continuum London New York, Published: 2002, Author: Peter V. Zima 

 

 

 

Wednesday 19th September

Clare Knox-Bentham

When creating her work, Bentham's primary focus is on illustration and how it will form around the body. This creates an individual, hand crafted kitschy look that is reminiscent of paint/slime by drawing with melted plastic EVA. The end result is rather home-made and chunky; something unakin to my own personal style, probably due to the uncontrollable nature of melted plastic. The two tone colour adds warmth and depth to the 3D flower; highlighting key details and softening the overall effect as cooler tones are more harsh visually. The harmonious colours are of high gloss whist the metallic turquoise chain compliments adding in a cooler tone. I like the mixing of the colours and using harmonious colours with hints of bright colours, this colour ideology I can use in future work, as I can think more carefully about how I want my colours to interact.

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The second necklace, is visually/ compositionally interesting as unlike traditional necklaces the shape is rather square which is most likely due to the heavy weight of the glue weighing the chain down in parts and solidifying. Focusing on the shape of my garments or accessories and trying to create a more innovative look could be done in future work. This piece is very intriguing as the plastic is loosely free formed around an already present structure (the chain), this creates a more organic look as the plastic is following its materials nature without being forced into foreign shapes. From this research I have learnt to focus on how I want to form my shapes on the body, whether I want to force the shape, like the first floral necklace, or enable the shape to free form and follow the materials natural properties.

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Friday 14th September 2018

Issey Miyake - Pleats Please

"Design is not for philosophy, but for life!" 

Miyake embraces wholeheartedly his motto in his work, through the non-wrinkle, lightweight fabric that does not need to be dry cleaned. I like how easy natured and made for real use his clothing are; as often high end clothing is solely made for artistic Avant-garde purposes. His pleat work is very loose/free and forms to fit the body's shape and contour lines adding in definition to the silhouette. 

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Miyake's combination of colour, pattern and print is also very interesting and intricate, as the pleats blend within the pattern, as each shape and pleat are in harmony. However, I feel the monochrome large shaped print works better as the hard work put into the pleats can be seen more clearly than in the psychedelic multi-coloured look where pleats and patterns smudge together.

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Wednesday 12th September 2018

Ancient Greek Sculptures

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The Greek god Apollo. The strong facial features is the main aspect of the art piece that draws attention. also the detail in the hair and the different style of carvings that can be seen.

Inspired by the ancient Greek sculptures and fascination with nature and the human form. The sculptures depicted the ideal versions of the male and females of the Greek society thus by creating my own bust of a shorn woman’s head, I am expanding on what is considered ideal and the best version of how a woman should look, which is often ‘long flowing hair’. Furthermore, through the bust sculpture I aim to convey how strength, independency and being non-confirmative (all traits I link to a shorn head) are ideal character traits of a woman also.

Hair in History

Date: 14/09/18

url site:http://www.time.com/5303229/women-after-d-day/

Shaving a woman’s head in certain countries history’s, like France, was a punishment. Stripping the woman of her beauty and modesty. In France during WW2 known as the épuration sauvage, the wild purge which took the lives of 6,000 people. Those particularly targeted where the vulnerable women who were accused of sleeping with the enemy and as punishment their heads were shaved and they suffered abuse. However, the new movement of feminism and going against the norm ahs made way for a new perception of shaved heads.

 

Bruno Pieters Spring 2010 Collection

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- Vogue Runway, 

Pieters in this ready to wear collection focused on two aspects of French tailoring ; flou ( feminine styling of light and ethereal fabrics) and tailoring. His pieces are simple yet impeccably made, as the strong lines of tailoring and stitch can be seen which adds structure to the garment. Without the strong tailoring skills the collection would of fallen flat in more ways than one, as the tailoring provides definition to the shape and contour to the body. Pieters work reminds me that I can create a simple garment that includes a wide range of technique and skill one that doesn't have to be showy or Avant-Garde on first look.

Indonesian War Memorial, Westminster

Innocent Victims of Oppression Violence and War.

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In the outer circle is a quote from Lamentations chapter 1, verse 12:

"Is it nothing to you all you who pass by"

The quote is a direct attack on the those who see tragedies in the world but ignore them. the quote also tries to engage with direct public to make them take more notice of the sculpture, to see it as the war memorial it is rather than just a piece of art.

- 1. I like how the circle shape is a metaphor for the life and the never ending circle of life and loved despite tragedies such as war. The circle shape could also symbolise the world whilst the doves that represent biblical peace are a metaphor for world peace that is soon to come

- 2. I feel maybe the art piece of been bigger or grander in a sense. However as it is a war memorial simplicity often works best so you can focus on the main issue at hand.

- 3. Kenneth M.Thompson is the Irish Sculptor who was commissioned for this piece. Most of his previous public arts have all followed the same traits of being rather small and close to the ground. However in some of his larger outdoor sculptures if he focuses on scale then the detail and object shape become reduced to simple silhouettes. 

- 4. The Victims of war memorial is made from stone with added details made from carving. However, in his other works Thompson uses a lot of steel and metals to create his pieces. His personal work tends to use simple shapes that are well made and exaggerated, so in my own work I can develop my own shapes and see how they can relate to the body.

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Similar to the Land of Peace exhibit, Thompson makes full use of his simple shape by using the flat circle, to increase width as well as a sphere to increase volume. I want to investigate further in my designs how simple shapes can be manipulated through structure or size.

Metal Cage, British Library

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Initially this sculpture reminded me of the carriage in Cinderella as it looked rather fairy-tale like and delicate. How the metal bends into the circular shape reminds me of the Victorian underskirt metal cages (crinoline) that used to be worn to provide skirts with structure and body's with the bell shape figure. The interconnecting lines of metal is an nice feature as well as the multi use of circles which acts as a reoccurring motif in this art work. The circular use of metal helps soften the harshness of the material. This research can inspire me to look at repeating the same shape within my designs.

Goaloids Shepherd Bush

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The inspiration for this art work was to mark the 2012 Olympic games and para-Olympics.  

What I like best about this public art work is that the artist, Elliot Brooke has taken a simple every day object and shape and expanded upon it. To create a structure that is very clean with prominent lines. What I don't like about the sculptures is that there is only 2 of them, I feel another sculpture varying in size would of made the overall collection feel more complete. This work reminds me that simple shapes that we are accustomed to seeing every day can be upscaled and be given added value through how they are manipulated and presented. 

Land of Peace War memorial, Westminster

 

 

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Lands of Peace 14-18 is an outdoor photography exhibition created by Michael st Maur Sheil to mark the ending of the First War Centenary. The inspiration for this public art work lies in a veterans 100 year old dream that "the country would come back to life, the grass would grow again, the wild flowers return” and that the Fallen “would lie still and at peace below the singing birds, beside the serenely flowing rivers … they would be part of us for ever”.  Each photographic block signifies a contribution made by the countries whose people suffered conflict, in a show of moral and unity. The creators aim was to encourage the public to visit these historical places and battle sites to fully appreciate their importance in history.

The exhibition consist of 60 free standing photograph boxes 1.2 metres (4ft) by 1.8 metres (5ft 10in). What intrigues me most is the structure, how the garment looks flat and 2D in one angle but 3D and defined in another. So perspective and structure is key for thus public art and a concept I can include in my own designs, by turning a flat 2D shape into a 3D one. 

What I don't like about the exhibit is the dull colours used as the grey tone chosen is quite muted and sad, when the exhibition is meant to be about unity and the coming together of countries once at war. So colour choices and the importance of selecting colours that correlate well with your shape and theme is important, although this project is in monochrome.

The exhibition makes me feel curious at to what the fields of battle look like now and all the new information that can be gained from attending the exhibition.

Michael st Maur Sheil is a photo-journalist who has spent 7 years working on this public exhibition. His other work features harsh environments and real people captured through photography.

 

Archaeology

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archaeology

noun

  1. the study of human history and prehistory through the excavation of sites and the analysis of artefacts and other physical remains. 

The word Remnants really struck a cord with me, as I felt that is what my ideas and creations had been leaning towards. As individual pieces the outcomes are not as significant nor impactful whereas, once you place all the outcomes and samples together due to the colour scheme and materials that unite them, they become a complete collection. Similar in a way to archaeological finds that rely on history and context to add value to items.

To display my range of outcomes, I will place them on the table in a cohesive manner to fully show the collection. I feel that by laying the remnants out on the table is in the spirit of how archaeological finds are also laid out, all clustered together with one defining link.

Thom Browne 2008- Shrunken Portions

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Thom Browne suit worn by Chance the Rapper.

"What I am doing has become the anti-establishment, because the jeans and T-shirt look has become so acceptable and part of the establishment." - Thom Browne

Thom Browne's infamous shrunken suit and tiny proportions are almost comic and in contrast to the exaggerated size of the Zoot suit. However, each of these suits although different in style both place importance on proportions and the fit of the garment. This is helpful for when I begin to create my garment and how it will be placed on the body. 

- American Fashion Menswear 2009, Assouline publishing, Robert E. Bryan.

The Zoot Suit

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The Zoot Suit became a statement of racial pride and a symbol of sticking it to the man. The Zoot Suit's infamous reputation came about due to the fabric restrictions brought in by the American War Production Board in the 1940's.  In rebellion to the new norm of minimal fabric in support of the war efforts, African-Americans and Latinos continued to wear the Zoot Suit (pictured above) as a statement of pride and love for the minority working class who still wanted to look stylish despite living in the ghetto, hence the suit was not branded but simply brought oversized. The Zoot Suit was born out of the streets, as the poet Langston Hughes notes "too much becomes just enough for them" with over exaggerated padded shoulders, jackets to the knees and super baggy high waisted trousers.

In patriotic and outraged response , the Police took to cutting zoot suits worn in public. in June 1943, servicemen stationed in Los Angeles saw wearing the suits as treason, resulting in wide spread attacks. Consequently, a full scale race riot coined the Zoot, with hundreds of people injured or imprisoned. 

To expand on the research, I will focus on creating shape and comic proportions in the shoulder area to reference the heavily padded shoulders of the suit.

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/brief-history-zoot-suit-180958507/

 

Stitch and Chalk

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- Original images found: Ermenegildo Zegna by Anna Zegna, Skira Edihare SPA 2010.

Inspired by tacking (large thread stitches) that holds the suit together in the Zegna suits, I wanted to develop this further and create a pattern with the stitches. What I find most appealing about the stitches and chalk is the delicacy/ intricacy it adds to the garment..

Hard Hairstyles

Himba Culture 

The Himba tribe in Northwest Namibia and Angola have become famous for their hair which is coated in otjize paste; a creamy mixture of fat and ochre pigment clay that can be scented. This concoction is applied religiously to their hair in the morning and night in order to maintain the orange hue. The importance of this look lies in being physically/visually identifiable to your tribe. Himba Hair photo by salymfayad.png

http://www.theafricangourmet.com/2015/08/red-clay-african-himba-tribe.html

Punk Hairstyles

 Before hair gel, punk fashionistas used lard, toothpaste, glue and washing up liquid in order to obtain the great hedgehog spike. This hairstyle embodied the punk movement, a movement that was all encompassing that aimed to change the way we felt, looked and acted. Tony James of Generation X used  a mixture of spit, orange juice and lemon juice to achieve his spiky do, which made him smell like a "carton of Kia-Ora". This crazy exaggerated punk look is now integrated into London's tourism merchandise, showing how an underground movement can gain footing and a place in popular society. 

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- Haircults; fifty years of styles and cuts, Dylan jones, Thames and Hudson publishers , 1990.

Tattoo Symbolism

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Tattoos are an important aspects of the hip-hop and punk culture. In hip-hop the tattoos are more specific to your area, gang and life situation whereas, punk tattoos seem to be universal. I wanted to investigate tattoo imagery as I wanted a stronger visual aspect to my research, one that I could include within my designs that would subtly explain my thought process.

Containment

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Control to me represents containment and restriction of peoples freedom, practices and beliefs. Likewise, Computer screens conatin all our virtual data that the government stores and accesses at their disposal.  Furthermore,  you often hear people say "I cant live without my phone" or "my phone is my life", and although you can dismiss these phrases as exaggerations, there is an element of truth to the statement. For all your contacts, photos, calendars and business can be accessed through your phone/ online, however it does not change the fact that peoples lives are confined to the screen rather than in the physical natural world.

The image above was taken at the Materials and Object exhibit at the Tate modern. This particular collection was created through donations form multiple artists of random personal or work related items, from clay to lipstick and nail polish (there was even a piece of extensions on display). This collection got me thinking about what can fit inside a jar and the multiple things that can be contained and put at a distance from others. As the glass acts as a barrier so no one is able to physically touch and get up close to the items, similar to the computer screen which acts as a barrier between us and the politicians where our interactions are limited and monitored. 

in my own work, I would to experiment with encasing my textiles work, creating a barrier around it to replicate the screens and the distance felt between the government and public, a distance that has led to riots and underground movements forming. To do this I want to look at using clear plastic or cling film to wrap around my samples.

Nahum 3:1 Biblical Reference

The research conducted on computer control, referenced the forgetting of ideas, history and ways of living. An example of this is religion, where people in the modern online world have replaced God with phones and celebrities to worship.  

This led me to the scripture in Nahum 3 verse 1 that speaks of this "bloody city full of lies and robbery". The bible has called the world, society and any form that is meant to contain or subdue us a trap of death. The thievery the bible talks about is of our individuality, our free will and ideas. We continuously believe in the government's lies yet once you do, you become a victim of society. If you never choose to question your surroundings or the integrity of the information you can never leave or break free as those of the punk and hip-hop movement have. the idea of questioning your government and the answers, reminds me of a clip of BBC news on Friday night where the journalist was interviewing Boris Johnson and challenging his responses that were factually incorrect, yet Johnson continued to stand by them and repeat them. 

Nahum 3:1 (KJV)

"Woe to the bloody city! It is al; full of lies and robbery, the prey departeth not"

Nahum 3:1 (NIV)

"Woe to the city of blood, full of lies, full of plunder, never without victims"

Nahum 3:1 (AMP)

" Woe (judgment is coming) to the city of blood (guilty of murder and mayhem), completely full of lies and pillage; her prey never departs alive."

To me the "bloody city" mentioned is London or the foundation of the government, as the government with every law and decision made have an outpouring of victims and prey, the weak, the vulnerable like the poor and homeless who suffer at their hands.

Inspired by street art and graffiti tags, I wanted to rephrase the wording to make it snappier and more of a tagline.

Nahum 3:1 (Shashamani Jackson)

Woe to the bloody city, full of lies, full of plunder, full of prey.

In future to use this research, I will work on graphics and how to include typography or this message within my textiles work.

 

Bloody City! (photo credit David Bailey)

Details

My Father's Suit Collection

My Father's Suit Collection

I decided to create a personal link through he choice of garment chosen, as my father and family members such as my brother and Grandad adore fine tailoring and are constantly in suits. Often they reach a point where their suits need to be bolder and brighter than the last, which is why I chose the suit as I felt I could create a more innovative creative version of the suit. Furthermore, the pinstripe suit is a print that is a basic in my family suit collection, one that is worn and treasured staple, that is often worn to functions or on an everyday basis such as work. In summary, formal attire and suits are something that my family prides themselves in wearing but they often find the suits lacking in different areas, which is why I want to learn and understand the suit through deconstruction in order to create a new and interesting silhouette. 

Junya Watanabe

Techno Couture- F/W 2000

The first thing that came to mind on seeing the neck ruffle was that it reminded me of the movement of paper, which I then photographed to show the visual correlation. The lightweight fabric enables the Neck garment to look elegant and light despite its size, as a heavier or darker coloured fabric may of appeared to be suffocating the model or look unbalanced.  The organza like fabric works well pleated, although it does not hold the larger pleats as strongly as the thinner ones near the top of the neck. As the fabric is so sheer you are able to see the pleat technique and where the seams are through the front, this is an interesting idea as it highlights all the elements that go into creating pleats that are not usually seen of the garment, is something I could look into in the future, similar to Kawakubo, the full composition of the garment is well thought out, to give maximum dramatic effect whilst also creating a soft feminine physique. 

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Image found: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/418764465325174362/

Own Photography of paper movement:

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Rei Kawakubo - Rihanna Met Gala 2017

I was drawn firstly to Rei Kawakubo's penchant for circular motifs, which can be seen throughout her work most recently (popularly) seen on Rihanna at the Met gala 2017. Through this look Kawakubo crossed the boundaries of art and fashion, as she is often known to do, in particular through the sheer mass of the garment and the volume that the layered circles created. In future work I could look at how shapes can be layered. Kawakubo in this peace has truly thought about the perspectives on all angles and how it would suit a fuller figure woman's body like Rihanna, as she draws away from the volume towards the end of the garment and instead gives added structure and shape, to contrast the circular nature of the look. In my own work I can concentrate on the overall silhouette of the shape, how it will fit the model and where I want exaggeration.

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Image found: https://www.vogue.com/article/rihanna-met-gala-2017-red-carpet-dress-comme-des-garcons-best-dressed

 

 

Rei kawakubo Response

Rei Kawakubo Vogue Paris

The black netted veil adds mystery to the garment and creates a darker atmosphere, which is in contrast to the satin tissue paper reminiscent fabric on the body and the bows which have connotations of childhood and young girls. It's intriguing how the same silhouette and structure can change through a different choice of fabric, as the right hand side image is made from a crochet off white material that creates a vintage feel. The garment becomes interactive as the model is fully immersed and contained in the wrapped fabric, that prohibits movement. giving the feeling of being restrained and confined linking back to the darker atmosphere created by the veil.  In future work I can look closely at the materials I use and how the human form fits within my creation.

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In response focused on the key elements of the look to draw:

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Jacquemus

Men's suits Reconstructed

An important part of this project's brief is how we are going to put the garment back together after the deconstruction. Jacquemus' fall/ winter 2016 runway provides inspiration on how o do just that. Although, the silhouette and structure of the garment has not been radically changed as it is still quite obviously a men's suit, the joining of the materials is innovative. The bows provide a feminine touch to an otherwise boxy, manly shape, as they are delicate and soft in contrast to the harsh structure of the suit.Furthermore, the revealed skin in parts is similar to how womenswear is often designed with cut outs in order to show off skin and sensuality. To develop on from here, I will begin to think about the different ways I can re-join my garment whether it be by stitch, loops, corset ties, knitting/macramé, zips or Velcro. My aim is to have a textural bold fastener by the end of the project.

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Wednesday 19th September

Fashion Illustration

John Booth

Booth's style is quite energetic and youthful as it is full of colour. Interestingly his illustration is split between a heavily monochromatic side and a cooler tone side of blues and greens with complimentary reds. the use of oil pastels adds visual texture and also helps the other shades to blend in well together. In my own work I'm already familiar with oil pastels, however from my research I will develop the technique further by using the oil pastels selectively in key areas.

john booth.jpg

Tanya Ling

These of yellow watercolour creates a softness to the image in contrast to the harsher black lines of the body. The odd angle/ perspective of the body adds visual interest and complexity as to the reason behind the body language. In future, ic an consider how I want the model portrayed focusing on the perspective of the drawing.

tanya ling 2.jpg

The graphic style of her drawing is very clean and bright, with each stroke being purposeful. I find most appealing the multiple coloured brush strokes that help to define more the depiction of the animal whilst also creating a happier tone, as bright vibrant colours are linked to summer. The ears are symmetrical which adds balance and harmony to the image whilst the rest is more spontaneous with large circles and brush strokes. I like the freedom of expression in Ling's line work as it flows naturally with powerful marks, due to the strong dark colours and thick lines. From this research, I can begin looking into digital ways of drawing outside of class.

Image Found: 19/09/18

Site :https://www.fashionillustrationgallery.com/news/tanya-ling-x-araks

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Chiharu Shiota

Bold thread  lines, that overpower the surroundings. Red is a strong passionate colour that can be a colour of love or of danger, so its unclear the meaning or the artists connection to the shoes. By using the thread the artwork remains light despite the volume of thread used, as the artists makes use of negative space to provide areas of visual rest and clarity, as the gaps between the lines help the viewer to understand the installation and to follow the line work. It is interesting how the artists has taken a common everyday object and turned it into a largescale artwork that questions our perceptions of the object. Shiota, believes that shoes carry the spirits of ancestors, which creates a more haunting image once the context is applied as the red could aptly be seen as blood, and the string the many interconnecting lives. This meaning is based on the artist's eastern Japanese culture, however a western audience might see the multitude of shoes and link it to the holocaust and the piles of shoes, hair and clothes from the Jews that are remnants of the war. So in future works, it could be interesting to see how different backgrounds and upbringings may relate to an image differently. 

shiota.jpg

Friday 14th September 2018

Vionnet

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1930's Vintage Vionnet Look. The cinched waist helps to define the female body whilst the flowing skirt adds a dramatic flair. The cape gives visual strength and power to the shoulders through extra padding and structure emulating a mans shoulders which are normally larger than a woman's. To develop on these ideas further I can look at structure and where I want to expand or exaggerate angles on the body.

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Image found: http://www.vionnet.com/collections

F/W 18 The multi-coloured tulle adds much needed vibrancy to the muted neutral palette. The sheerness of the tulle allows for layering over the fitted trousers which creates a fuller look and the illusion of a complete dress. In this project I could experiment with the use of tulle, sheer materials and the technique of layering

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The Pre-fall 2017 collection of Vionnet focuses on a simplistic, monochrome aesthetic. Although, minimalistic design is not my personal style choice, the clean lines and tailoring form fit well to the body, to create flattering looks. So in this project, I could focus on 

Wednesday 12th September 2018

The Female Identity

“…The significance {of} …women whose language moves across gender-boundaries and into the abyss of the inexpressible.” Pg126 self/same/other

Women with shorn heads to me represent the “cross{ing} of “gender-boundaries” as they visually begin to represent femininity and masculinity. This is trait of masculinity in women is often looked down upon, yet for me the shaved head embodies all the varying ranges of femininity and womanhood; from beauty to strength. A bald head is seen as something dangerous, risky or serious, (thus it being the choice look of the army and many movements) a look that is not connected in any form to softness or sensuality as frequently many women hairstyles are.

They… pass beyond gender into the language of ineffability” pg126 self/same/other

The key word here is ineffability, as a shorn head on a woman visually and metaphorically encaptures a multitude of ideas, with people having varying reactions to it from viewing it as an “inexpressible” sign of rebellion from hair customs that correlated long covered hair to modesty, to viewing it as symbol of female power.  Heather Walton in her book Self/Same/Other also notes that the language of ineffability is spoken by women who seek to disengage from the norm and worldly institutions, the visual representation or act of this for me is when a women shaves or cuts her hair. Linking to the Hindu Mundan ceremony, the shaving process acts a physical removal on any limitations or negatives placed on the woman’s life as she enters into her brighter future.

Hadewijch coined this as “leaps into the fertile unknown” in the poem Mengeldichten 17, 93-108 the phrase “freed from their limits in silent latitude” stands out. For the physical act of shaving your hair requires no speech yet, the visual look itself is a protest. The unknown being “fertile” implies that the future for woman will be much greater than the current situation, this relate to the definitions of futurism and expand given in our group work, that the future will be an improvement of today. 

identities {are] marked by polorization…in the most extreme forms of national or ethnic conflict and by the marking of inclusion or exclusion – insiders and outsiders” ch.2 Identity and Difference

Having a shorn head as a woman clearly identifies you as an original someone “outside” the social norms.

Monday 10th September 2018

Hindu Culture:

The Mundan Ceremony

In Hinduism a babies head is shaved for the first time in order to remove traces of the past life, as Hindu's commonly believe that the hair can contain unwanted segments of a past life/history. so the act of shaving the head is a form of spiritual cleansing, preparing for new life and letting go of the past. The ceremony is one of the sixteen Sanskars that must be carried out in a persons life as directed by the Vedas ( old Indian scriptures), as after passing through 84 Lakh Yonis, each life or being leaves a trace of themselves behind with the baby. Hinduism also correlates a strong connection between hair removal and early intelligence, as the first shave stimulates mental growth. 

Date:10/09/18

Publisher/copyright:  1999 - 2018 India Parenting Pvt. Ltd.

Found URL:http://www.indiaparenting.com/indian-culture/71_5028/mundan-ceremony-of-a-baby.html

 

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This Picture shows the loss of hair and the pile creates a symbol of the discarded past. The Vibrant reds and golds of the Sari connote passion, blood which relates to new life/sacrife.

Date Found: 10/09/18

Date published: 21/05/14

Found URL Site: https://www.boldsky.com/yoga-spirituality/faith-mysticism/2014/importance-of-mundan-ceremony-040132.html

Author: Sanchita Chowdhury

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Example of a traditional Mundan Ceremony. The candle and flame are a part of the ceremony and reflect the idea of change and transformation.

Date Found: 10/09/18

Photographer/Owner: Martin Broeze

Title: Mundan Sanskar

Found URL Site:http://martinbroeze.nl/reportages/mundan/

mundan by martin broeze.jpg.2

 Date Found: 10/09/18

Photographer/Owner: Martin Broeze

Title: Mundan Sanskar

Found URL Site: http://martinbroeze.nl/reportages/mundan/

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